Eric’s Rully Preaux premier cru Label
The shipment of the delicious 2008 de Suremain Rully Burgundy has docked, but be aware it never lasts very long. Many of you already know that Eric de Suremain has got a talent for making wine that far out-strips its appellation.
“…the average 2008 will make for really lovely medium-term drinking though there will also be a few long distance runners.
” The best ’08s are fresh, intense, bright, vibrant and very terroir- driven – in short it’s a classic Burgundian vintage. And as I noted in my vintage analysis last year, it is on the whole more interesting than either 2007 or 2006. And in a few cases, the wines are truly brilliant so don’t overlook them..” -Allen Meadows, Burghound, on the 2008 red Burgundies.
Every time I have a shimmering glass of Suremain’s Rully, I wonder why everybody is not incurably attached to French Pinot Noir. “Why, there’s nothing quite like it,” I say to myself as the swirl of berries fills my mouth. I’ve tasted it from every country in world, but Burgundy’s is still the most exquisite expression of the grape type.
The flavors seem embedded in every molecule and they skip across my taste buds scattering black cherry, raspberry, minty, leathery, chocolaty fairy dust along the way. A refill, please.
“I love the best 2008s; they are my kind of Burgundies. …The best wines of the vintage are pure, racy, perfumed midweights that accurately showcase their terroir —in all its fruity, spicy, floral, mineral glory—and deliver classic Burgundy intensity without weight. While very few wines are truly full-bodied, many are densely packed and rich in extract. .” -Stephan Tanzer IWC
You already know my Burgundy philosophy: find the passionate, talented growers in lesser-known appellations that will deliver all the Pinot Noir character without the big price tag. Sure, invest in a few bottles of the hallowed ones, but keep the Rully on hand by the case to drink as often as you like. Rully is a Chalonnaise wine which is part of Burgundy, just south of the more famous Cote de Beaune.
Eric de Suremain took his vineyards biodynamic in 1996. He was way ahead of his time, still is. Eric de Suremain does not embrace every little technological miracle that comes along. He still believes in getting up close and personal with his grapes by practicing pigeage — good old-fashioned foot-stomping. His yields are very low. His vines are old. He is restrained when it comes to new wood. Eric’s wines remain in barrel for as long as two years. His wines are long-lived and will drink well up to ten years or more.
His philosophy about winemaking sounds simple, but is really profound: “there are no petites annees, it is just the balance which counts.” This means that he is a flexible winemaker who adjusts for the variables in every vintage. He doesn’t try to match the juice to his winemaking, he matches his winemaking to the juice and it is that skillful balancing act that makes a wine seem like a seamless wave of pure, expressive ripe, Pinot flavor. Cynthia Hurley