Sun-drenched and famous for its lavender and light, Provence in the south of France has been making wine since the ancient Greeks landed here over two thousand years ago. The warm, dry climate and varied soils of limestone and schist suit Mediterranean grapes, and the region has staked its modern identity on pale, dry rosé. Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, and Mourvèdre go into those blush wines, though the serious reds of Bandol, built on Mourvèdre, deserve more attention than they get. There is more depth here than the poolside reputation suggests.